Finishing Woodwork & Paneling Zinsser Products Used: BULLS EYE® SHELLAC Other Materials Needed: Mild household detergent Clean, lint-free rags Sandpaper, (100 grit, 150 grit,    220 grit) Denatured alcohol Mineral Spirits ScotchBrite ® pad Brush, sprayer or lint-free cloth Wood filler putty or paste (optional) Wood stain (optional) Scraping tools Paint stripper
Project Description: Shellac is a popular finish for interior woodwork, trim, moldings, doors and paneling. It offers a fast dry time and beauty that comes only with a traditional shellac finish. Clear Bulls Eye Shellac gives wood – especially oak – a luxurious finish that highlights the depth and beauty of the wood grain, yet doesn’t make the wood look plastic-coated. Amber Bulls Eye Shellac offers a warm, antique hue that creates an elegant, traditional look.
Project Steps:
Step 1 - Surface Preparation
Clean previously finished woodwork and paneling thoroughly with a mild detergent and water to remove dirt, grime, and oils. If the surface has an existing layer of shellac or finish, or if you are unsure if the finish is really shellac, simply dampen a rag with denatured alcohol and rub it back and forth on an inconspicuous area. If the finish starts to feel tacky and begins to dissolve onto the cloth it is very likely shellac. There are slightly different methods of surface preparation, based on the type of finish that is present. Bare Surfaces Sand surface thoroughly with 150 grit sandpaper or sanding sponge. If you don’t plan on staining the wood, fill nailholes, cracks, gouges, etc. with wood filler that most closely matches the color of the wood. When dry and hard, sand surface smooth. If you plan on staining the wood, see step 2 below. Previously Shellacked Surfaces Remove any wax by wiping with mineral spirits or paint thinner. If the old finish is somewhat crackled but still in good condition, soak a rag in denatured alcohol and gently wipe the surface until the shellac melts back together and crackling disappears. If the old finish is badly crackled and flaking, remove it by gentle scraping and scrubbing with steel wool or ScotchBrite® pads and denatured alcohol. Surfaces with Other Existing Finishes Because shellac sticks to just about anything, it can be applied over existing oil-base polyurethane or lacquer finishes that are in good condition. Wipe the surface with mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove any old wax and furniture polish. If the finish is cracking, peeling or poorly adhered it must be stripped off. Your retailer can recommend a particular type or brand of stripper to use. After removing the old finish, wash well with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits. When dry, sand all surfaces smooth, first with 100-grit sandpaper and then with 220-grit sandpaper.
Step 2 - Stain Wood if Desired
Apply stain according to the manufacturer’s directions and allow to dry overnight. Before applying shellac, fill all nail holes, cracks & gouges with a wood putty filler that most closely matches the color of the stained wood. Remove all dust with a vacuum, a tack cloth or a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Applying Stain on Softwoods When applying on pine, fir or other softwoods you may have difficulty getting the stain to penetrate evenly. For a more even looking stain appearance, condition the wood first with a wash coat of shellac. See “How to Condition Wood Before Staining It”.
Step 3 - Apply Shellac
Pour Clear or Amber Bulls Eye Shellac into a separate container. For best results, apply two or more coats using a brush, wiping cloth or sprayer (see How to Apply Shellac for more details). When applying over previously shellacked surfaces, thin 3-lb. shellac to a 2-lb. cut by adding 2 parts denatured alcohol to 5 parts shellac. With most previously shellacked surfaces, one coat should be enough to restore the beauty of the original finish. Let first coat dry 1 hour. Lightly sand between coats with a ScotchBrite® pad or 220 grit sandpaper for an extra smooth finish. Apply second coat of shellac. Allow to dry for 3 hours before lightly sanding and applying the final coat. Let everything dry overnight. If a satin finish is desired buff the final coat with 0000 (superfine) steel wool. Do not place or lean heavy objects on the newly shellacked woodwork or paneling surface for at least 48 hours. *Tip from the Experts – If you want to return any leftover shellac or clear finish to the original product container be sure to filter out any foreign particles by pouring the liquid through a paint strainer or a few layers of cheesecloth to prevent contamination.