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Finishing Furniture & Cabinets with Shellac
Zinsser Products Used:
Other Materials Needed: (100 grit,150 grit, 220 grit)
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| Project Description: Furniture craftsmen and finishers regard shellac as the premier finish for fine wood furniture and cabinets. Follow the steps below to create a rich, elegant shellac finish on your furniture and cabinets |
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| Project Steps: | |
| Step 1 - Surface Preparation | |
| Clean the surface thoroughly with a mild detergent and water to remove dirt, grime, and oils. If the surface has an existing layer of shellac or finish, or if you are unsure if the finish is really shellac, dampen a rag with denatured alcohol and rub on an inconspicuous area. If the finish starts to feel tacky and begins to dissolve onto the cloth it is very likely shellac.There are slightly different methods of surface preparation, based on the type of finish that is present. Bare Surfaces Sand surface thoroughly with 150 grit sandpaper or sanding sponge. If you don’t plan on staining the wood, fill nail holes, cracks and gouges with wood filler that closely matches the color of the wood. When dry and hard, sand surface smooth. If you plan on staining the wood, see step 2. Previously Shellacked Furniture and Cabinets Remove any wax by wiping with mineral spirits or paint thinner. If the old finish is somewhat crackled but still in good condition, soak a rag in denatured alcohol and gently wipe the surface until the shellac melts back together and crackling disappears. If the old finish is badly crackled and flaking, remove it by gentle scrubbing with steel wool or ScotchBrite® pads and denatured alcohol. *Tip from the Experts– If you know your piece of furniture is truly an antique and still has its original shellac finish think carefully before refinishing. The value of an antique increases tremendously if it still has its original finish. If the finish is badly worn or damaged bring it to a professional furniture refinisher. Surfaces with Other Existing Finishes Shellac can be applied over existing oil-base polyurethane or lacquer finishes that are in good condition. Wipe the surface with mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove any old wax or furniture polish. If the finish is cracking, peeling or poorly adhered remove it using Parks Furniture Refinisher and wash well with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits. When dry, sand all surfaces smooth, first with 100-grit sandpaper and then with 220-grit sandpaper. |
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| Step 2 - Stain Wood if Desired | |
| Apply stain according to the manufacturer’s directions and allow to dry overnight. Before applying shellac, fill all nail holes, cracks & gouges with a wood putty filler that most closely matches the color of the stained wood. Remove all dust with a vacuum, a tack cloth or a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Applying Stain on Softwoods When applying on pine, fir or other softwoods you may have difficulty getting the stain to penetrate evenly. For a more even looking stain appearance, condition the wood first with a wash coat of shellac. See “How to Condition Wood Before Staining It”. |
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| Step 3 - Apply Shellac | |
| Pour Clear or Amber Bulls Eye Shellac into a separate container. For best results, apply two or more coats using a brush, wiping cloth or sprayer (see “How to Apply Shellac” for more details). When applying over previously shellacked surfaces, thin 3-lb. shellac to a 2-lb. cut by adding 2 parts denatured alcohol to 5 parts shellac. One coat should be enough to restore the beauty of previously shellacked surfaces. Let first coat dry 1 hour. Lightly sand between coats with a ScotchBrite® pad or 220 grit sandpaper for an extra smooth finish. Apply second coat of shellac. Allow to dry for 3 hours before lightly sanding and applying the final coat. Let everything dry overnight. If a satin finish is desired buff the final coat with 0000 (superfine) steel wool. Do not place heavy objects on a newly shellacked surface for at least 48 hours. |
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